Urban Farming in Baltimore

—Stephanie Shapiro has been a Market regular for nearly 40 years. She lives in Tuxedo Park with husband Tom and dog Archie.

It may still be winter, but on this February morning the Farm Alliance of Baltimore stand at the 32nd Street Farmers Market brims with prepared offerings from local urban farms: Woodberry Kitchen’s hot sauce made with heirloom Baltimore Fish peppers, grits, potpourri and the remaining jars of honey harvested last year by new beekeeper Leslie Evans, who is here today tending to customers.

Her dream to work the land in retirement led Leslie to the Black Butterfly Teaching Farm, run by FAB—the Farm Alliance of Baltimore in Curtis Bay. There, she learned the rudiments of beekeeping, from pest control and protective gear to hive health, storage options and retail packaging.

This will be the third year of operation for “Unconventional Farm,” so-called because of her age (late 60s) and focus on a single crop harvested from hives she placed on others’ farmland. Age hasn’t kept her from her calling, says Leslie, a FAB member and member of its board. “I'm gonna keep doing it until my body finally says, ‘No, we're not doing this,’ or, if I get one sting too many.” 

As part of the national “food sovereignty” movement, FAB’s collective of urban farms has helped Black communities in Baltimore gain control of the means of food production and distribution vital to overcoming racism’s toll on food security and wellbeing.

Founded 15 years ago, FAB supports dozens of farms tucked into alleyways, empty lots, backyards and public spaces across the city. Together, the farms comprise only about 25 acres, but have made a disproportionate difference in the lives of those who steward the land and benefit from its harvests. 

As they yield healthy food, the farms have also nurtured vibrant communities of employees and volunteers, centers for socializing and cooking demonstrations and business startups, such as Leslie’s honey operation.  

FAB has seized upon Baltimore City’s glass half full/half empty status to create a powerful model for achieving food sovereignty, says Alison Worman, the group’s programs manager. “The city is challenging in many ways,” she says. FAB is an example of the “many opportunities for folks to build what they want to see here.”

The 32nd Street Farmers Market has boosted FAB’s growth as a hub for retail sales and publicizing the urban agriculture network. “The market was essential to FAB's early desire to determine if small-scale urban growing was actually viable,” says Denzel Mitchell, FAB’s executive director. “For over 11 years, it has remained a consistent platform where member farms can count on strong sales and a regular connection to the community."

Photojournalist Shae McCoy came to Strength to Love II as a volunteer and quickly worked her way up to assistant manager. The farm, in Sandtown-Winchester, is a FAB member and regular presence at the 32nd Street market. It’s very fulfilling to network with other farms and make connections with customers, Shae says. “It helps our sales and brings people to the farm to buy produce or volunteer.”

Throughout the year, FAB farmers take turns working the farm stand. “If we're going to cooperatively sell at the market, we also have to cooperatively support that market stand,” says Aria Eghbal, who manages the market operation. 

FAB’s cooperative business model, designed to link mutual aid to strong local food systems, is in evidence at the 32nd Street Farmers Market. For example, last year, when the nation’s food assistance programs were temporarily halted, the FAB farm stand offered a 50 percent discount to customers in need, while those who paid full price offset the cost to the collective. 

FAB’s mission and its array of produce, flowers and prepared products, have cultivated a loyal customer base for the farm stand. “They love to see us when we’re here,” Aria says. “From what I hear, they miss us when we’re not here.” 

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The Farm Alliance is at the Market on the first and third Saturdays through May, then every week starting May 30.